Short answer: You don’t “repair” a cracked LCD – you replace it. But not every black or glitchy display needs a new panel. Use the 5‑minute checks below to tell if your issue is the screen, the cable/hinge, or something else.
What “Repair” Really Means
- Cracked/broken glass or LCD: not fixable; the panel (or full lid assembly) must be replaced.
- Loose/damaged cable, tired backlight, lid sensor issues: often fixable without a new laptop.
- Spills, motherboard/GPU faults: not a screen problem – different repair entirely.
5‑Minute Diagnosis: Is it the Screen?
- Plug into a TV/monitor (HDMI/USB‑C).
- External image OK: graphics chip is fine → fault is in the display chain (panel, cable, or backlight).
- External also bad: likely a board/GPU issue – not a screen job.
- Torch test for backlight.
With the laptop on a dark screen, shine a torch at the display.- Faint image visible: backlight/power issue (panel or backlight fuse/cable).
- No image at all: panel or signal problem.
- Hinge wiggle test.
Slowly open/close the lid.- Flicker/coloured lines change with angle: usually a display cable over the left hinge (cheap part, moderate labour).
- No change: points more to the panel itself.
- Look for physical damage.
- Spider cracks/ink‑blot/pressure marks: panel is physically broken → replace panel.
- Uniform vertical lines on every screen, inc. BIOS: often panel; could be cable.
- Touchscreen behaviour (if applicable).
- Touch works but image is broken: LCD only.
- Touch dead + cracked glass: many models require a full fused assembly (LCD + digitiser), pricier than standard LCDs.
Common Symptoms → Probable Causes
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix Likelihood |
|---|---|---|
| Spider‑web crack, black “ink” | Shattered LCD | Panel replacement |
| Screen black, faint image under torch | Backlight/power issue | Panel or small board fuse; often replace panel |
| Image OK on external monitor only | Panel/cable/backlight | Screen‑side repair |
| Vertical coloured lines | Panel or cable | Replace panel; try cable first if angle‑sensitive |
| Flickers when lid moves | Cable at hinge | Replace cable; inspect hinges |
| Random artefacts on both laptop & external | GPU/mainboard | Not a screen repair |
| After a spill, screen weird | Liquid damage | Full assessment; not just the screen |
How Repairable Is Your Laptop?
- Standard Windows laptops (non‑touch, 14–15.6")
Usually panel‑only swaps. Fast, affordable. - Touchscreen / 2‑in‑1s
Often fused glass + LCD. More expensive; sometimes full assembly. - MacBooks (Retina)
Many models require a complete lid assembly. Excellent results, higher parts cost. - Very old CCFL‑backlit laptops
May involve an inverter/backlight issue; parts availability can be poor.
When It’s Not Worth Repairing
- The laptop’s resale value is lower than the repair cost.
- There’s liquid damage or crashing on both internal and external displays.
- Repeated hinge/mount damage that will keep stressing new screens.
- You need it today and your panel is obscure (stock delay).
DIY vs Pro: A Reality Check
You can DIY basic LCD swaps with the right tools and patience. Risks include wrong panels, broken bezels, and static damage. If time and sanity matter, a specialist will typically be cheaper overall once you factor in tools, returns, and risk.
Bottom Line
- Cracked glass/LCD? Replace the panel (or assembly).
- Black/no image but external works? Likely the screen side; fixable.
- Changes with lid angle? Cable/hinge area.
- Bad on external too? Board/GPU – different repair.
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